Alexandre Mattiussi returned to form with AMI’s Fall/Winter 2023 fashion show. Held inside the grand Opéra Bastille, AMI hosted hundreds of Paris Fashion Week attendees in a contemporary opera house designed by Carlos Ott, lining the halls with plush cream carpeting, picnic chairs and light bulbs.
The beginning of the show was the unveiling of the cut, perfected as expected from the brand. Silk shirts, baggy chore jackets and to-die-for shoulders were rich in creamy, tonal color that perfectly accentuated AMI’s execution. Below we find sheer tank tops and turtlenecks, a nod to imply that AMI’s cuts – and clientele – are meant for city-chic meetings.
As the collection continued, the cuts became looser and looser, suggesting that city-goers were now at home lounging in their day clothes. The trousers from before were now dark blue and more loosely cut with a touch of cargo pants as pockets adorned the sides of the high leg and the belts built into the waistband of the trousers began to slide down the floor with equally light outerwear.
The diverse age range helped describe AMI wearers — simply, anyone with an eye for a good fit. Whether double-breasted or single-breasted, sleeveless, floor-length or cropped, jackets and coats explored the brand’s ability to dress its vision up or down. From dresses and tops that sparkled brighter than the Eiffel Tower to crystal embellishments on the blazer (a nod to the big FW23 trend à la Gucci, FENDI, BLUEMARBLE and more), the collection started to sparkle, in more ways than one.
The gathered children’s blue woolen polo shirts brought a smile to the faces of the visitors, as they greeted a kind of youthful nostalgia; reminiscent of the kind of clothes a young professional would wear to make an impression, perhaps. A cropped pastel yellow leather bomber jacket conjured the same image, while oversized suede and shearling jackets, feminine jackets and luxurious navy woolen boilers were borrowed from our parents’ closets — only now reimagined for someone on the go.
To cover it all up, AMI introduced a standout raincoat with a brushed leather strap, and to reveal, crystal-encrusted sheer tops that come into play at night.
All in all, AMI FW23 was an exercise in dressing for every day, if your everyday motive is to make everything a little more special. Check out the collection in the gallery above and find more Paris Fashion Week FW23 content on Hypebeast.
In other news, Louis Vuitton debuted a FW23 collection designed by Colm Dillane.