Italian fashion house Emporio Armani is the first to present on the Armani roster this season, with its luxury division Giorgio Armani set to debut later this week at Milan Fashion Week. However, for the Fall/Winter 2023 show, Emporio Armani’s youth-focused sub-label seems to have grown up.
While Spring/Summer 2023 took attendees on a seaside vacation with a refined collection dubbed “A Basketful of Summer,” FW23 opted for aviation references, evening jackets, formality and a touch of its refined streetwear undertones. The former collection was light and airy, with lightweight fabrics at the forefront to deliver stylish yet relaxed menswear that will take you from the city to the beach in no time. Bold cuts and cut-out fastenings have been given simple graphics for summer, while a vibrant range has arrived in neutral tones for everyday wear.
However, Emporio Armani FW23 took a different route. Although he wasn’t in suits and boots like the main Giorgio Armani, the brand represented cuts galore. With flight mode activated, models in leather hoods and aviator goggles strutted down the runway in exquisitely tailored boilersuits — belted at the waist and accented with buttoned pockets for a look reminiscent of good old flying activities.
Likewise, puffy leather aviator jackets with cropped collars were aptly paired with aviator sunglasses, while all-leather raincoats with a belt cinching the waist further alluded to Top Gun aesthetic. Straps that go over and around the model tied into cropped leather bomber jackets, fuchsia cashmere sweaters with an airplane propeller on the front, complementary shirts with a female pilot printed on the chest, airplane-like belts and double-breasted and boxy jackets shoulders with straps (reminiscent of military uniforms) continued on a high topic.
The story later grew as formal evening jackets and night showcases were unraveled on the runway. See-through shirts, satin black lapel jackets paired with scarves and amethyst sequined blazers all conjured up thoughts of arriving to dinner in style, on a private flight of course.
Injecting a more youthful edge was the EA 7.0 outerwear offering, which consisted of puffer jackets and smooth nylon sports jackets that came in a bright orange shade, with vein structures printed all over for a pleated effect. However, the all-encompassing formality proved that Emporio Armani can stand alongside its big brother when it comes to discerning design.
You can view Emporio Armani’s FW23 collection in the gallery above. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week FW23 content in the coming days.
If you missed it, check out Gucci FW23.