Every six months, more or less, fashionistas from all over the world come to Florence, Italy to attend Pitti Uomo. The numbers are staggering. This January, 800 brands gathered at the venue of the fair, Fortezza da Basso. They were joined by more than 13,000 buyers from around the world—plus accompanying flocks of influencers, editors, and all manner of other insiders. In all, more than 18,000 visitors passed through the Fortezza and the outdoor shows scattered throughout Florence. To fully embrace many, a lots of things to see is simply impossible. But we here at Esquire are dedicated to uncovering—at least as much as we can—the future of men’s fashion. So we tried with the help of a group of really knowledgeable guys who also attended the fair. Here, we present the six picks that these style arbiters said stood out the most. Each one should be on your radar—and maybe in your closet.
Brunello Cucinelli, a longtime flagship brand at Pitti and an important partner of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus for many years, is usually our first stop at the show and one that really sets the tone for the luxury menswear we’ll see presented this season. This collection’s focus on precious, fine fabrics such as vicuna blends and ultrafine cashmere was to enhance the already luxurious materials and craftsmanship that are the company’s signature and a real draw for our loyal customers. Rich double-breasted jackets and delicately tailored coats, textured suede and alpine-inspired sweaters all make for an unforgettable start to the season. — Bruce Pask, Director of Men’s Fashion, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus
One of my favorite parts of Pitti is getting a first look at the new Brunello Cucinelli collection. There is always a rich story that connects with an equally rich story in color and materials. This season’s inspiration – aged wine – put the purple and burgundy hues of the collection into a smart new context, given that this is the kind of outfit you’ll be wearing for a long time. — Jian DeLeon, director of editorial and men’s fashion, Nordstrom
Everyone’s favorite editor, Josh Peskowitz, has been released. [Ed’s note: Peskowitz, also an Esquire contributor, is working with Sannino Napoli on an eponymous sub-collection as well as the brand’s broader offering.] The product is phenomenal. And since I’m obsessed with outerwear, I loved his take on the updated Loro Piana wool barn coat. Last but not least, the amazing “shantung” fabric – a nylon and linen riff on the classic raw silk material – that they use on the coats. Incredibly luxurious, unique, but most importantly — wearable! — Jeremy Kirkland, founder and host Blame! podcast
Déborah Neuberg is the epitome of a modern brand. Her designs evoke the modern Parisian chic man and are one of the few brands I know of that are also B Corporation certified. The collection was filled with generous silhouettes, which are comfortable but still flatter almost every body type. Bonus points: her upcoming collaboration with Gloverall is helping me free up some closet space and start saving now. — Justin Kirkland
I’m a fan of discovering up-and-coming labels like Paris-based De Bonne Facture Déborah Neuberg. She specializes in the types of simple wardrobe staples that instantly seem like you’ve upgraded your style simply by wearing them. — Jian DeLeon
Stile Latino is a tailor from Naples. You might think that’s enough – but there’s a big difference in Vicenza Attolini’s vision of Neapolitan tailoring. He designs his own textiles and pieces in some of the most attractive and beautiful color combinations. It’s a totally unique thing. So not only will you have a magnificently cut and tailored jacket, you won’t be seen coming and going. — Nick Wooster, Design and Retail Consultant
I love classics, and a classic heritage company that knows how to stay young. Paraboot is releasing a fur-topped version of the Michael, a derby style the brand has been doing for years. Her name is Michael’s bride. I loved it, of course. — Mordechai Rubenstein, photographer, photojournalist and author
Unimatic is a watch brand—but it’s not your father’s watch brand or a certified designer dupe. Giovanni Moro has created a subdued range of technically perfect, durable and elegant timepieces. It makes them in Italy, Japan and Switzerland and has prices that range from affordable to somewhat expensive (but not the fantastic prices of certain watches. You really have to see and touch them to understand). He has also made interesting collaborations and works with very select retailers. — Nick Wooster
Jonathan Evans
Jonathan Evans is Esquire’s style director, covering all things fashion, grooming, accessories and, of course, sneakers.
