Jonathan Anderson headed to Milan Fashion Week Men’s to present his Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection and Pre-Fall 2023 womenswear collection for his namesake label, JW Anderson. The designer, who will present his upcoming menswear collections in the Italian fashion capital, brought surrealism to the catwalk with references to his past, including his 2013 collection.
Weeks before the show, the designer deleted the label’s Instagram account, uploading images of a tub of Vaseline as well as playful frog slides that later debuted on stage. The collection was opened by male models wearing only briefs with colored ankle boots, holding rolls of fabric. The next looks then featured loose dresses paired with pillows, while another model flaunted a short-sleeved top with a cozy pillow attached to the front. The look was paired with surrealistic tomatoes emblazoned all over the model’s body.
Looking back at his 2013 runway collection, Anderson added ruffled shorts to the mix, which were updated with leather, while the line continued with men’s bodies printed on T-shirts. He expanded on the playful theme with knitted briefs featuring bunny and rat motifs, while strap details took over strapless dresses as well as leather coats.
Taking center stage, as teased before the show, were the frog-shaped slides, which were created in collaboration with Wellipets. Accessories also included surrealistic frog clutches, similar to the designer’s viral Pigeon Clutch Bag. Shear trims were placed on briefs and tank tops, accompanying mismatched ankle boots in contrasting colours. The collection was rounded off by leather and plastic SIM cards that also served as an invitation to the fashion show.
“It’s a very raw state of mind. That’s what I wanted for this collection. A sweater is a pullover, pants are pants, a jacket is a jacket. There’s no over-explanation in the look,” Anderson said of the collection. “I liked the idea of looking at subversion. Especially in London, especially in the 70s and 80s, and looking at the great masters like [Vivienne] Westwood… I don’t think we should be afraid of subversion. I don’t think it’s about shame anymore, it’s about ownership.”
The creative went on to talk about the frog clogs: “I googled and suddenly they appeared again. I’ve been pestering them on the phone for weeks to see if we can [work together]. Something about them reminds me of my childhood, they were something to have. They were ‘coached’ as a child. It is the only surrealist moment in the collection that is, ultimately, like a tape recorder. It’s a design icon, it’s in a design museum and in every institution, and I think it symbolizes something. They have coped in better days with our royal family.”
Check out the full range in the gallery above and watch the slideshow below.
For more fashion updates, check out Gucci’s first collection without Alessandro Michele and Prada’s FW23 menswear presentation.