Issey Miyake’s legacy lives on strongly with the just-debuted HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Taking to the Palais de Tokyo, the brand’s presentation at Paris Fashion Week was more performance art than show, and that’s what makes the brand stand out from the rest. .

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE is a brand that avoids trends and sticks to its own path. There were frills aplenty, of course, but without the late, great Miyake at the helm, how does the design team take the sub-brand to the next level? Technical clothing.

Innovative jackets that popped up, down, side to side and offered angular hoods, wind flaps and back aprons were the absolute highlight of the season. It demonstrated the brand’s ability to subvert its own code of pleated goodness, using pleats instead to create a coat of origami origins. Similarly, a number of pieces turned pleats into more pleats and pleats – a lavender jacket stepped into the world of tech like the aforementioned jackets, while her signature raincoat was reworked in muted shades of gray that hid oversized pleated materials, this season’s less accordion spring. than before.

Of course, the usual array of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE pieces appeared in tops, bottoms and outerwear, but even that still felt elevated. Geometric lines and patterns worked their way onto coats that were pleated from top to bottom, throwing glances at the wearer, while long T-shirt dresses and a rather spectacular skirt in red hinted at a (even more) progressive, expressive future for brand.

The collection consisted of 42 looks, each of which told a part of the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE story. From a sweater that used ruffled arm pleats to signify its role within the brand to the look synonymous with House, everything came together for a uniform to suit all occasions.

And this was explored within the show itself, which featured multiple interludes of artistic dancers moving around the room with light fabrics and flashing lights following their every move, showing that HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE is a brand that moves with your body.

Check out the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE FW23 collection in the gallery above and stay with Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week FW23 coverage as the days go by.

For more fashion highlights, check out Hed Mayner FW23.

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