From avid hikers to streetwear influencers, you can spot cargo pants and militarycore aesthetics everywhere these days. But this season, designers approach it in an experimental and structured way. Luxury brands such as Off-White, Valentino and Act Nº1 have gone all out with their recent runway looks sporting a military aesthetic. Fashion houses such as Coperni, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton and Diesel have also included these styles in their runways for Spring 2023. Even celebrities such as supermodels Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, actress Emily Ratajkowski and singer Rihanna are doing it again this style cool. With increasing popularity, experts decipher this fashion mission for us.
“Fashion inspired by military style is the biggest trend of the season. He is not limited to just trousers but wears everything: skirts, shorts, jackets and matching sets,” informs Amritha Ram, creative director at KH House of Khaddar. Designer Aniket Satam adds to the sentiment, saying, “Combat fashion becomes mainstream when people can relate to the underlying idea of protection. After the pandemic, we can all relate to this collective feeling, making it the trend of the year.”
What is militarycore?
Think camouflage prints, practical details and silhouettes, and rustic color palettes including khaki, olive, brown and tan. “This becomes a key stylistic element of Militarycore. Some of the accessories under this trend include dog chains, berets, hats and patches,” informs Satam. Designer duo Rishi and Vibhuti add that this style encompasses everything related to the military uniform – from dark color choices, functional accents like pockets, zippers, buckles, etc. to camouflage patterns.
Evolution
Several reports suggest that the style was inspired by British military uniforms from the 30s. Uniforms were made to make it easier for soldiers to carry extra ammunition and other necessary supplies to the battlefield. The fashion industry adopted it later, looking through a utilitarian lens. The pocket-heavy design hit big in the 90s and early 2000s, and is seeing a resurgence with the rise of Y2K fashion.
“It has undergone a modern makeover, translated into tailored silhouettes, interesting pocket positions infused with ultra-luxe fabrics, smart details, modern cuts and a variety of shades,” says Ram.
Style it right
While everyone wants to jump on the bandwagon, Satam warns that overdoing it can look like cosplay. “Add one element and build an entire look around it, like wearing chunky combat boots or a camo print T-shirt. Simple and well-done color blocking with olive green, khaki or coffee can also work well,” he says. Concurring, designer Rishi Roy adds more about accessorizing the look: “Either go for military-inspired accessories or invest in some statement outerwear, like a khaki jacket, heavy wool bomber jacket or nylon bomber jacket with badges. and patches.”