The Paris menswear shows are underway and despite freezing temperatures and a debilitating transport strike, the fashion community is out in full force.
This season’s event, which ends on Sunday, offers a number of new features, including the unexpected debut of Usher’s bright hair and the long-awaited collaboration between Louis Vuitton and American designer Colm Dillane of KidSuper.
From celebrity sightings to extraordinary collections, read our impressions of the shows so far.
Usher’s new neon thing
Usher with red-orange hair. Credit: Pierre Suu/Getty Images
The Grammy Award-winning artist lit up the front row with his new flame orange hair. Usher debuted his neon look with an ombre effect on the first day of the show at Wales Bonner and was seen again at Bianca Saunders the next day. Wearing the full opening look from last season’s runway, his presence had photographers clamoring for a photo.
Geometry class with Issey Miyake
A dance break demonstrated the movement of clothes on the Issey Miyake catwalk. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Geometric shapes, with a strong focus on triangles, were the starting point and inspiration for this season’s Homme Plissé Issey Miyake collection‚ showing the many iterations of how triangles and other angular elements can be twisted and manipulated into complex silhouettes and patterns.
Signature pleats, of course, abounded from pleated trousers to pleated detailing on sleeveless shirts and coats, and larger, looser pleats falling from the shoulders on nylon outerwear.
The show was punctuated by dance performances that showcased how well the garments moved, as performers weaved in and around a light show that featured – you guessed it – multiple geometric shapes.
Jenna Ortega channeled Grace Jones in Saint Laurent
Jenna Ortega at the Saint Laurent menswear show in Paris. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty
Jenna Ortega, star of Netflix’s “Wednesday,” stepped out in a hooded black dress with a bare back for Anthony Vaccarello’s first men’s show for Saint Laurent in Paris. The halter dress, from the spring-summer 2023 collection, was reminiscent of the legendary Grace Jones look. Seated in the front row, the actor was visibly mesmerized by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s piano performance that closed the show.
Rick Owens orthopedic boots
Rick Owens took chunky boots to the extreme at his menswear show. Credit: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Rick Owens is no stranger to striking shoes – his dizzying Kiss platforms have become a cult item. This season, the American designer channeled the orthopedic shine with boots that offered a far chunkier silhouette up the leg, with thick linings held together by buckled leather straps. The best way to recover from a broken foot?
Rosalía rocked Louis Vuitton
Rosalía stole the show on the Louis Vuitton runway. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images
Spanish pop star Rosalía shook the roof of the Louvre with her electrifying performance for the Louis Vuitton fashion show, which showcased a new collection with its first guest creative director, KidSuper’s Colm Dillane. The artist opened the show wearing an all-white oversized ensemble and walked down the runway with a torch flashing the French brand’s iconic monogram before climbing into a yellow car to perform her hit “Candy.”
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection featured a mix of elegant tailoring, utility clothing, sports-inspired separates and patchwork coats.
Grown-up rave culture is growing in Dries Van Noten
The drum performance of the Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan hit Dries Van Noten’s performance. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images
Music has always been important to Dries Van Noten. Avid followers will remember his Fall-Winter 2011 show, with a soundtrack of specially mixed David Bowie masters. This season, the Belgian designer explored ’90s rave culture with a more grown-up sensibility. Guests made their way to the multi-level garage for the show, packed with experimental musicians belting out light techno beats while beer was served from steel carts. At the top, the Belgian duo Lander & Adriaan performed what the show notes called “sophisti-rave” on drums and synthesizers. A hypnotic soundtrack set the tone for the new collection, which featured flora and fauna motifs, fur clogs, outerwear that ranged from tailored coats with cinched waists to oversized puffer jackets with abstract patterns and baggy ’90s cargo pants.
Junya Watanabe reveals the Palace collaboration
Junya Wantanabe collaborated with the London skatewear brand Palace. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images
Junya Watanabe, well known for his extensive list of fashion collaborations, decided to celebrate the many brands he has worked with over the years – including New Balance, Oakley, North Face and Timberland – in a predominantly monochrome collection. Also spotted on the runway was the unmistakable Tri-Ferg logo of London-based skatewear brand Palace on the black puffer section of the jacket. Another first.