The men’s fashion market is booming globally; it is the most important event of the start of the 2023 season.
(Excélsior).- After six years of absence, the French house Saint Laurent returns on Tuesday to Paris Men’s Fashion Week, the most important event of the opening of the 2023 season, with 48 fashion shows and dozens of presentations.
Saint Laurent has doubled its sales in the last five years and, under the direction of creator Anthony Vaccarello, diversified its clientele, with off-season shows, notably ignoring Paris Fashion Week.
Other brands, on the contrary, come to the event with the energy of debutants, such as the British Grace Wales Bonner, winner of the 2016 LVMH Award (the most important fashion and luxury consortium in the world) for young creators.
This designer, who combines a sober British cut with West Indian colors, will physically parade in Paris for the first time.
Dior Homme led by Kim Jones, American Rick Owens, Givenchy pilot Matthew M. William and British Paul Smith return to the offer of their creations after a complicated 2022 for the world of fashion, with changes in the leadership of some houses that changed their artistic direction.
Louis Vuitton lost its menswear artistic director, Virgil Abloh, in November 2021 and has yet to name a successor.
For this Fashion Week, she invited Colm Dillane, the founder of the brand KidSuper, which stands out for its casual streetwear line. KidSuper will also be on the catwalk on Saturday the 21st.
Spaniard Arturo Obegero will also return to present his creations.
Before the Paris fashion week in Milan, where Gucci also returns, after the unexpected departure of its artistic soul, Alessandro Michele, at the end of last year, he is a creator who is not afraid to mix genres and styles.
The rise of men’s fashion
“Saint Laurent, Gucci, Givenchy work almost better for men than for women. Today, fashion houses are interested in the development of men’s fashion, which has its own codes,” Alice Feillard, purchasing director at Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.
The men’s fashion market is on the rise, this expert assures. “We’ve been noticing this for 2 or 3 years now, and it continues to grow exponentially,“, she adds.
Even in underwear, the men’s market is growing: in the first ten months of 2022, it gained 3.3%, to 400 million in January, compared to the 2.5% growth of women’s underwear, which has a significantly higher turnover anyway : 1 .5 billion euros (about 1650 million dollars).
Givenchy has given up haute couture, but has been proposing men’s fashion since the arrival of American Matthew Williams in 2020.
Maison Margiela will also return to Fashion Week, under the artistic direction of the once defenestered John Galiano.
Another designer who is attracting attention is Emily Bode, chosen as the designer of the year 2022 in the United States, and known for her use of recycled materials.
Marine Serre is on a similar track, another woman who dresses men casually, on the street, and who starred in a spectacular fashion show at a sports stadium in Paris last year.