In case you missed it, this year’s Costume Institute exhibit is dedicated to the legacy of fashion’s most hyperactive and prolific mind, Karl Lagerfeld—a polytechnic designer who put even the most adroit multitasker to shame, and whose uniform (starched collars, Ancien Régime)-esque ponytail ) became a legend.
With “Karl Lagerfeld: The Line of Beauty,” Andrew Bolton, chief curator of the Wendy Yu Costume Institute, and longtime Lagerfeld collaborator Amanda Harlech, the exhibition’s creative advisor, have the difficult task of synthesizing the designer’s career into some 150 looks. But luckily, at this year’s Met Gala, honoring Mr. Lagerfeld isn’t just a curatorial task, as the 2023 dress code is “In honor of Karl.”
It’s a moment for all esteemed guests to salute one of fashion’s greats, and from our perspective, the theme has multiple, wondrous ways to do so. Lagerfeld, don’t forget, designed for several houses—Balmain, Patou, Chloé, Fendi, Chanel, and his eponymous brand—so there’s a rich trove of materials, periods, and aesthetics to draw inspiration from. And so, honoring Lagerfeld on the Met Gala red carpet leaves attendees, who include co-chairs Michaela Coel, Penélope Cruz, Roger Federer and Dua Lipa, with three options. The first, most authentic approach would be to wear an archive look from one of the labels Lagerfeld ran; another would deal with modern Chanel or Fendi, two houses on which Lagerfeld left an indelible impression; and the third — and perhaps the most obvious? Find your own Choupette and dress like Lagerfeld.
Which route will secure a glamorous visitor a spot on our best-dressed list? Appearance with originality! Lagerfeld, we assume, would hate a half-assed homage, and with such a vast oeuvre, guests should have no problem unearthing a unique piece.
Young Karl Lagerfeld as head designer at Jean Patou; July 21, 1958.Photo: Getty Images
Lagerfeld at work in the Chloé atelier in Paris; February 12, 1977.Photo: Getty Images
For those going the vintage route, kudos to any guest who shows up at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in an archival Balmain dress dating between 1955 and 1958 — the period when Lagerfeld was assistant to Pierre Balmain. Guests could also aim for Patou pieces dated between 1958 and 1963, when Lagerfeld served as head designer and ushered the label into the swinging 1960s. Then, of course, guests have two Chloé eras to draw from; Lagerfeld headed the Parisian label from 1963 to 1983 and again from 1992 to 1997, effectively creating the quintessentially romantic Chloé girl.
And let’s not forget Fendi. From 1965 onwards, Lagerfeld led the design team of the Roman fur ready-to-wear brand; came up with a double F logo and monogram design, which — fun fact! — did not mean “Fendi-Fendi”, but “Fun Fur”. And, oh what fun they were! Lagerfeld dipped minks in technicolor dyes, patched them like quilts, shaved them for added texture and, all in all, pushed the boundaries of what was possible with furs before the brand began phasing them out. Almost any vintage Fendi red carpet ensemble would feel right at home at this year’s Met Gala.