In a larger context, I like the indulgence we see in fashion. Buyers and fashionistas like to get advice and guidance on things, but I prefer indulgence. This era of exploration we have entered in menswear is truly exciting. The idea of erasing boundaries and emphasizing self-expression was a really important direction.
We’re witnessing exponential growth in men’s business in general, so it’s becoming an increasingly important category in the fashion landscape. Much of this comes from the influence of the media, especially social media, and in informing customers and making them make more informed and courageous choices. This really creates a braver customer who makes decisions that can be more interesting and less expected. I love when there is expansive thinking that informs fashion brands, collections and customers.
What do you expect from menswear, both on the catwalks and in personal style, this year?
There is a lot of anticipation for the first Gucci collection after the departure of Alessandro Michele. He was a big supporter of erasing boundaries and exploring eccentricity, femininity and romanticism, so where is that place in the house now? I’m really interested in that. Also, we saw some really interesting entries in historic houses like Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally and Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo. This opens us up to a lot of experimentation, a lot of expansive thinking and a lot of creativity.
We definitely still see a lot of utilitarian influences, but before I get into utility, one of the most important things we see is a focus on proportion. We see a strong movement towards things that are voluminous, things that are full, things that are bigger. It fits nicely with this agnostic view of gendered clothing. It’s neither this nor that, and that’s very, very exciting to me. This game of proportions will affect a broad customer base in ways that are practical. I don’t expect everyone to be wearing a Comme des Garçons off-the-shoulder jacket or an extended lapel coat, but it will inform you.
What direction would you personally like menswear to go in?
That’s a tough question! I hate to keep using that word permissiveness, but I just want everyone to be able to wear what they want and I want to see more options that people can embrace. I love it when there are multiple directions that many different types of people can respond to. I think it’s important that there’s enough fashion that people can feel connected to.